With a full range of options from the friendly gradual slopes of Pilot Rock to the sharp and impressive north face of The Looking Glass Rock, one can easily find a climb within their ability.

Due to the rugged nature of this area, it is always a good idea to seek the services of a professional mountain guide service to ensure a great trip that is safe and full of enjoyment.

For more information on the climbs reviewed below, call Stuart Cowles at 252-9996.

Toads-R-Us - There is a plaque bolted into the rock face near the rappel anchors that mark the top of this magnificent climb. From this vantage point, the climber can easily retrace the steps he or she followed to conquer this tricky route. Steep face moves. Thin positive edges. An occasional smear or two (a standard in the mountains of North Carolina). Exposure, breathtaking views, and a few [unprotected] moments, add to the exhilaration of this climb.

Some folks prefer to take Toads as one long pitch. Others break it into two short ones. Don't forget the short traverse pitch over to the rappel anchors, or you'll leave a lot of gear on the rock!

If you enjoy hiking in the woods, you'll find getting there is as fun as climbing the route. A winding trail takes climbers past the Art Lobe Trail to a pretty rock face know to locals as Cedar Rock. A good cane is as important as a full rack of small- to medium-sized protective pieces, a long rope, and a positive attitude.

Dinkus Dog - A spectacular route on the South Side of Looking Glass Rock in Pisgah National Forest. Left of the Danger Dog Buttress, Dinkus Dog follows a black striped line up a near vertical wall of horizontals and edges for two hundred feet, Protection in the horizontals is excellent with an abundance of one-half to two inch wide cracks. A double set of TCU's and smaller sizes of Tricarns along with a standard rack will protect the climb safely for two pitches.

Start the route by stepping out on the slab below the stripted wall till you are beneath a shallow dihedral fifteen feet up and at the right end of a long roof and ledge system . Climb straight up to this feature, then follow the path of least resistance more or less straight up to a large horizontal where a belay can be made at approximately ninety feet. The bolt you notice to the right is on Parachute Woman. The second pitch will take you up and slightly left for one hundred twenty feet of similar climbing to a large ledge and two bolts from which you can rappel. If you are toting two sixty meter ropes, the descent can be made in one long rappel. Otherwise, rappel to the tree ledge left of the route with two fifty meter ropes and then again to the ground.

Cornflake Crack, 5.11a, reigning classic of Classics here in North Carolina. Back in 1978, sans protection devices or sticky rubber shoes, Henry Barber flashed Cornflake. No falls, no hangs.

Anyone who has struggled with the stout moves and strange positions Cornflake demands, has to admire Mr. Barber's ability and vision. I recently met Barber at an AMGA meeting in New Hampshire, and was amazed to learn that he had injured his shoulder on the day he took Cornflake. He had been unable to raise one arm during the entire ascent!