While we’re forever grateful for winter farmers markets and farmers who find ways to extend their growing seasons, we do sometimes experience midwinter doldrums.
Less variety can leave cooks feeling uninspired. When this happens, it’s time to mix things up—literally, in a blender or food processor. We’re talking about winter green sauces!
Green tahini sauce is a creamy—yet vegan!—game-changer for enlivening winter meals. This Middle Eastern sauce is made from tahini, lemon juice, garlic, and olive oil, along with enough green stuff to give it its name. Start with a handful of greens (spinach, chard, radish tops, or carrot tops all work well here), along with any mix of herbs you can get your hands on. Cilantro is a cool-weather herb and can often be found at winter markets. Mint and parsley are also traditionally included. Blanch your greens and herbs for a minute in a pot of boiling water to soften them, then plunge them in an ice bath or run under cold water. Blend them along with a clove of garlic, half a cup of tahini, the juice of half a lemon, a few tablespoons of olive oil, and a pinch of salt. Taste and adjust salt and lemon juice to your liking. You can thin it out with water to the desired consistency.
Winter salsa verde is another way to perk up your cold-weather meals. Salsa verde is an Italian sauce of chopped greens or herbs, similar to pesto, but with some different flavors. Rougher greens, like kale or collard greens, really shine here. Start by removing the ribs from your greens and tearing them into smaller pieces. In the bowl of the food processor, pulse your greens with a clove of garlic until roughly chopped. Add three tablespoons capers, two tablespoons apple cider vinegar, one tablespoon Dijon mustard, one teaspoon anchovy paste, and a pinch of salt. Pulse a few more times. Then, with the motor running, drizzle in olive oil until everything comes together and is the consistency you want (around half a cup).
These winter sauces can be used in so many ways. Thin them out and use them as salad dressings. Spread them on sandwiches (or spoon them over a pita pocket or wrap). Toss them with roasted veggies, like sweet potatoes, radishes, and kohlrabi. Drizzle them over a grain bowl loaded up with veggies, mushrooms, and a fried farm egg.
There are lots of winter greens available right now. Look for Taiwanese spinach from Lee’s One Fortune Farm, a variety that is particularly cold-hardy and a little sweeter than other types (at Asheville City Market and River Arts District Farmers Market). Highgate Farm has kohlrabi, cabbage, radishes, along with their greens (Asheville City Market and River Arts District Markets); Gaining Ground Farm has kale and a variety of other greens (North Asheville Tailgate Market); Smallholding Farm (rotating at Weaverville and River Arts District markets) has carrots with tops.
At winter markets now you’ll find carrots, radishes, kohlrabi, turnips, cabbage, hardy winter greens, microgreens, winter squash, potatoes, and sweet potatoes. Markets are also stocked with a variety of cheeses, pasta, pastries, drinks, and prepared foods. As always, you can find information about farms, tailgate markets, and farm stands, including locations and hours, by visiting ASAP’s online Local Food Guide at appalachiangrown.org.
Written by Appalachian Sustainable Agriculture Project.